What happens on 16 January
On the evening of 16 January, many Sardinian towns celebrate Sant’Antonio Abate with a great communal bonfire called su fogadoni. Neighbors have gathered wood (sa linna) in the days before and stacked it in a central square, often by the parish church. At dusk, the priest blesses the wood with holy water (s’abba santa) and the fire is lit in front of the community 🔥. The fire is both practical and symbolic. It warms a winter night, but it also signals protection, renewal, and the hope of a healthier year ahead. When the flames drop to glowing embers (sa braxa), people sometimes jump across them, alone or in pairs (a paris), as a simple rite of good fortune.How the ritual unfolds
- Days before: residents collect and stack wood in a safe, central spot.
- Evening of 16 January: a short blessing is given, then the bonfire is lit.
- During the evening: the square fills with conversation, songs, and low-key toasts. Visitors are welcome to stand around the fire with locals.
- As the fire lowers: some people leap the embers, often after a small informal queue forms near the safest edge.
- Late night: the gathering tapers as the fire dies. By morning, only ash (sa chera) remains.
Where to experience it
Mamoiada, Barbagia
Mamoiada is one of the most atmospheric places to witness the fires. The evening often coincides with the first seasonal outing of the Mamuthones and Issohadores, the town’s traditional mask groups, a highlight of the local calendar according to Sardegna Turismo (Sardegna Turismo). For deeper context on the masks and their role in winter rites, the town museum offers clear explanations and exhibits (Museo delle Maschere Mediterranee).Other Barbagia villages
Across Barbagia, several towns build large bonfires in the main square and hold simple community gatherings. Ottana, known for the Boes and Merdules masks during the winter season, is a good point of reference for these mountain traditions (Sardegna Turismo). Check local schedules in the days before your visit.Meaning and local words
- Su fogadoni: the main bonfire at the center of the celebration.
- Sa linna: the wood gathered by residents.
- S’abba santa: the holy water used in the blessing.
- Sa braxa: the embers that remain after the flames drop.
- A paris: jumping the embers in pairs for good luck.
Practical tips for attending
- Timing: arrive before dusk to watch the blessing and lighting. The biggest crowds are soon after ignition.
- Clothing: wear warm layers and closed shoes with good grip. Mountain towns can be very cold in January.
- Safety: keep a sensible distance, follow any stewards’ directions, and never throw objects into the fire.
- Photos: ask before photographing people up close, especially during mask performances.
- Driving and parking: small-town streets fill quickly. Park on the outskirts and walk in.
- Food and drink: bring small cash for local bars or stands, and a reusable cup if you carry a hot drink.
