Why Lollovers is absolutely worth the detour
Lollove is a tiny granite hamlet just outside Nuoro, a quiet pocket of Barbagia where time seems to move a little slower. Nuoro has long been considered the cultural heart of Barbagia, and Lollovers reflects that spirit perfectly: intimate, authentic, and deeply connected to the rhythm of the seasons.
The dining room feels warm, collected, and full of character. Colorful chairs, handcrafted plates all different from one another, and a striking woven wooden ceiling create an atmosphere that feels curated but never staged. You immediately sense personality, history, and authenticity. The welcome is warm and natural, and once you are seated, it becomes very easy to lose track of time. Plan on staying a while.
What to expect: Barbagia on a plate
The cooking is inspired by the traditions of Barbagia, with clean execution and ingredients that speak for themselves. This is how dinner often unfolds.
Starters
Pane Carasau is always present. Thin, crisp, beautifully toasted, and impossible to stop eating.
Local cured meats served alongside the intense, savory, slightly peppery character of aged Pecorino Sardo.
A soft homemade cheese, together with a selection of seasonal garden vegetables prepared according to what is freshest that day.
Plates of silky lardo with beans, and chicken livers cooked with real skill, depth, and balance.
First courses
Maccarrones de busa, the iconic pasta of Barbagia, served with a delicious rich sauce full of depth and character. The ridges hold every drop of sauce perfectly.
Main course
Maialetto allo spiedo with perfectly crisp skin and incredibly juicy meat.
Desserts
Strictly homemade.
A tart with a cream so unbelievably good it feels like something you may never have tasted before in your life.
Wine
Wine pairings are simple, deeply local, and chosen to accompany the entire meal perfectly from beginning to end.
Their fantastic house red wine is served throughout the evening and is very much part of the experience.
If you spot Nepente di Oliena on the table or on the menu, it is absolutely worth choosing.
How it works: menu, booking, experience
Menu format: expect a seasonal fixed menu. The kitchen cooks whatever is best that particular week, based entirely on seasonality and what is at its peak.
Dietary needs: let them know when booking if you are vegetarian or gluten free. Traditional Barbagia cooking revolves heavily around meat, cheese, and wheat, but with advance notice they can almost always adapt some courses.
Prices: budget around âŹ40 per person for food.
Booking: especially on weekends and throughout summer, booking a few days in advance is strongly recommended. The dining room is small and fills up quickly.
Dress code: smart casual. You are in a rural setting, so comfortable shoes are a very good idea if you plan to stroll through the village after lunch or dinner.
Insider tips
Arrive hungry and without rushing. Portions are generous, and the dishes arrive at exactly the right pace.
Ask about the cheeses according to their aging. Young pecorino is creamy and delicate, while aged wheels become deeper, saltier, and beautifully peppery.
Save room for dessert and a small glass of Mirto. Simple, classic, perfect.
Getting there
Lollove sits around 10 km from Nuoro, roughly 15 minutes by car along narrow but wonderfully scenic local roads.
Park at the entrance of the village and continue on foot. The tiny stone lanes are narrow and much better enjoyed walking.
Public transport does exist, but a car remains by far the easiest option, especially in the evening.
Make it a full day
Before dinner, enjoy a stroll through the historic center of Nuoro with an aperitivo and a glass of Cannonau.
On another day, if you are exploring the west coast, stop in Cabras, home of Sardiniaâs famous bottarga.
Bottom line
Lollovers interprets the flavors of inland Sardinia with care, precision, and respect. The room is designed with taste, the welcome feels genuine, and the kitchen lets truly great ingredients do the talking.
If you love Barbagia cooking, Pane Carasau, and a properly poured glass of Cannonau, this table absolutely deserves a place on your list. đ·
